In Which Maleficent Wins Halloween

Happy Halloween! Well technically the day after Halloween. But I wasn't ready to write the blog post until today - so - Happy Halloween!

I trust by now we have all unlaced our stays from the delights of chocolate and other sugary delicacies. Or are realizing that was one short cut on the costume we should not have take. I fall in the later camp since I didn't actually get to my costume until Monday, roughly 5 days before Halloween, and finished it five minutes before I was due out to an event. (Sound familiar?) It was to be really simple, I was going to wear my pirate from last faire season and my new cutlass, but then I bruised a couple ribs and couldn't wear a corset, so out came Maleficent.

It is truly terrifying to go dig out a half finished costume (half may be putting it lightly) after the influence of several glasses of wine. Insert freak out here. And then to realize there needs to be accessories and a fabric store run. And then next day led to two runs to the hardware store. (For headpiece and staff)

To begin we have the accessories.

PVC pipe with watering orb on top as orb on Maleficent's staff. I wrapped the pipe in painters tape to give it texture and grip for the paint. 

The Staff with the added pieces at the top. I cut down the swirls on the right because it didn't look evil enough. At this point the orb was wrapped in tinfoil and out to the backyard with the spray paint!

The paper mache layer over the headpiece. Yes my head form is a can of tomatoes over a wine bottle. I have no shame. And no head form. 

There wasn't sufficient time to paper mache the headpiece all together so I just used more painters tape. This shows the painted staff too. I believe this was Wednesday. So far no robe...

Required Feline Assistance. You can see the base of the horn to the left of the picture. The right picture shows the horn form and a completed horn. This was Monday? Or maybe Sunday. I can't remember. The kitty is Sylvester. He likes to help.

The lefr shows the spray painted headpiece and the right with some of the purple decorations I believe the left was the "OMG It fits!" moment.

Sylvester assists again. "I'm so bored, why are you playing with my bed?" He had spent the last few days on the fabric. 

In progress shots of the robe. I love the color contrast. And the sleeves are amazing! There will definitely be more on this. And we can also see the train. There is just something about a fabulous train that puts a girl in character. 

And now the finished robe! More pictures coming I swear.

Happy Halloween!

Cheers!

Merlina

She for Whom the Sun Shines

This is the photo heavy photo shoot for my full Ancient Egyptian gown. I still want the vulture crown and my bracelets were not dry, but we took advantage of the weather. And now for the gown and all the context. And so we know, by far I am no Egypt expect. In this post, I'm the author painting a picture of a world gone by.

It is 1280 BCE, Ramses II is newly upon the throne of Egypt, a superpower of the Ancient World. Later to be known as Ramses the Great for his military and political prowess as well as the numerous monuments he erected all over Egypt. It is the carvings we see another side to Ramses, he was a man deeply in love with Nefertari, his queen.

http://euler.slu.edu/~bart/egyptianhtml/kings%20and%20Queens/Queen_Nefertari.html

It is upon the walls of Nefertari's tomb we see how deeply Ramses loved his queen. We also get the poetry which I used as the basis to this challenge.

Real Quick, The Challenge Facts:

The Challenge: #18 Poetry in Motion 

The Item: Ancient Egyptian Overdress, dated to the New Kingdom, more or less
The Fabric: 3 yards White Linen, gauze weight
Pattern: Looked at the pretty paintings, went from there
Year: Reign of Ramesses II, 1279 BCE to 1213 BCE
Notions: Linen thread, hook and eye
How Historically Accurate is it? Um. It’s linen, which Egyptians used, it looks like the pictures but there's not much evidence to show how to make this. It's more theatrical. But is hand sewn too. Also the train is not accurate as far as is known but I really wanted the train, looks fancy. I'd say 40-50% because of linen, hand sewn and looking the part.
Hours to Complete: Roughly 24 hours total
First Worn: For the photo shoot and some quick pictures
How is this Poetry? I took my influence from the poetry in Nefertari's tomb. It was written by Ramesses to honor her. He called her "she who makes the sun shine, just in her passing she has stolen my heart."

In the pictures I am wearing the gown from Pretty Pretty Princesses last year, my belt from an earlier challenge which name is escaping me, the robe for this challenge, my beautiful jeweled sandals, a black wig cut short, a wide collar from Egypt, and my crescent moon headpiece because it works. 

And now for all the pretty pictures. 

 Walk like an Egyptian!

 We are a tomb carving!

 At this point I gave up on the wig. Red hair is period anyway. Ramses had red hair 

Close up of the makeup

And there you have it! Nefertari! Up next we have the making of the pieces as well as the Tudor Lady. Then tis on to Halloween and two new eras well not new but new requiring full wardrobes! 

Cheers, 

Merlina

Challenge #4: Underneath it All

I had awesome plans. I was going to keep up with the blog and have all the challenges up on time. Ha. I'm hilarious. Then the universe intervened. And I had to haul my dear laptop off to repairs and find a real job.

So without further delay I give you my pre quilted quilted petticoat for Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 Challenge #4: Underneath it All (And as soon as I find buttons I like do I have an awesome post for Innovation.)

 

I am not wearing anything under it. It stands out just like that on its own. I intend to add a bit of stiffener to the hem to make it even sturdier.

I like the quilted petticoat because I have no patience for hoops or corded petticoats of any kind. This one is to be worn under a Florentine Gown with one petticoat over it. So it should stand up nice. Plus it holds my skirts out with the same umph but fewer petticoats. I'm also planning to use it for several eras. 

Here it is under a skirt. The skirt is 4 yards quilters cotton with two grosgrain ribbon guards. The petticoat holds up rather well. 

Now for the Facts:

The Challenge #4: Underneath it All

Item: Quilted Petticoat

Fabric: 3 yards prequilted red fabric (cotton fabric with polyester batting)
Pattern:  Cut 4 rectangles at the proper waist to ankle height. And two longer ones for waistband.
Year:  I consider it rather multi era, given it gives awesome skirt support. Its true purpose is for 1570s Florentine.
Notions:  Thread
How Historically Accurate:  Cotton and Polyester are not accurate, neither is machine quilting. However, red was a popular color for petticoats. And quilted petticoats do exist, especially in the 1700s. I say 3-4/10
First Worn:  Only for the pictures and then around the house when finished. Intended for the 2014 Faire Season and then to help hold skirts out (hoops and I hate each other. Even corded ones.)
Time Spent: Took abou 15 minutes to cut out and then about 3 hours to assemble. That includes French seams because I use those on everything. So 3 hours 15 minutes

Total Cost: Fabric was on sale so $15? I bought it awhile ago.

Hopefully the dress will be soon!

Oh and my help:

Gods forbid the fabric floats away!

Cheers!
Merlina

Happy Halloween!

This makes it two posts in a week! I blame Halloween and the fact I have power here. So important. I also finished a Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge! EARLY!

So here we go:

Background:
About 6 years ago I made this costume for Halloween. It was my first big project. Complete with a corset I drafted myself, petticoat, bustle pad, and chemise. I admit to there being a zipper in the back of the bodice, but I couldn't think of anything else to use, and it is put in so well so it stays. This is what it looked like:

Yes I am quite young in this shot. A senior in high school. Note the long sleeves, the slight bustle and the train. I never like how the skirt fell. It didn't have enough weight. I then made a new bodice to this posted in a post a year ago. But this would be the skirt with the new bodice. 

I still need to adjust the bodice for this look, but the cape shows up later. It's so pretty. With silver moons and stars on the tulle.

So last year I got it in my head that I needed to repair the skirt, line it with something. I bought several yards of black cotton broadcloth, took apart the skirt, laid it out and cut out the lining. The next part should be easy. It was until I ended up with a wicked headcold that left me unable to look down. I got better and then we lost power. Damn you Sandy. I tried stitching by candlelight which failed miserably. So I put it aside. This year I was motivated and on October 28th, I tore out seams and redid the skirt, did crash course research and made an Order sash, and removed the sleeves from the original bodice. Throw in Catwoman's velvet gloves, some pretty pins, and sparkly jewelry and you get the Queen of Darkness in Court Dress.

Upon taking these pics I realized for this type of dress, I should be in a tiara. I don't currently have one for the Queen. For now her Bat headpiece will have to do. She is much pleased by her cats and her throne. You can see two in the pictures above. (the black one refused to be photographed from anywhere but the stairs.

And now for the Historical Sew Fortnightly Facts:

The Challenge #22: Masquerade

Fabric: Originally 3 black velvet curtains, 1 yard muslin. Added in: 4 yards black broad cloth, about ¼ purple satin

Pattern: Originally from “Patterns for Theatrical Costume”, there was a lot of research about court attire.

Year: Um…bustle era? There is a bustle under there. Maybe more Steampunk

Notions: Three fancy pins for the sash, thread, gloves, jewelry

How Historically Accurate: It looks historically accurate. But it’s really not. There’s a zipper in the back of the bodice. And it was never meant to be historically accurate.

Hours to Complete: I originally made the bodice and skirt 6 years ago. Started the skirt redo last Halloween, got sick, Sandy came. Finally finished. Maybe three or four working straight.

First Worn: Day before Halloween for pics. Grad Students don’t dress on Halloween for Class

Total Cost: Um….maybe $50 overall from the beginning?

The Queen and Her Pirate Wish You All

Happy Halloween!!

Challenge #12: Pretty, Pretty Princesses

So Pretty, Pretty Princesses the 12th challenge of the Historical Sew Fortnightly. I know yay! I actually did a challenge! Seeing as how life has interfered with pretty much all the others.....

Now, princesses, when we hear that word we all likely think of those really really rich costumes from the Middle Ages or possibly even from Disney. (And the historical accurate versions are truly drool worthy, I have plans for those...) Which is a great starting point. It helps with brain storming. So originally I thought of Queen Isabella, the She-Wolf of France from the 14th Century in England. (Think of the French Princess from Braveheart, I know more drool worthy costumes). But then I had a totally out of the box idea, my absolute favorite monarch from history, Nefertari, beloved royal wife of Ramses the Great.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Maler_der_Grabkammer_der_Nefertari_004.jpg

This is an image of Nefertari from her tomb built by Ramses the Great. The two of them are considered a great love story, possibly the greatest love story from the Ancient World. Ramses valued her so greatly that her name appears on the Treaty of Kaddish, the world's first peace treaty,  and she kept a correspondence with the queen of the Hittites. Her tomb in the Valley of the Queens is one of the largest and most ornate tombs. So there, that's my princess for the challenge. And I have to say it but The Ten Commandments got it wrong, Nefertari was so much in love with Ramses. 

I have big ornate plans to make her crown, collar, and bracelets. I will eventually. I have to finish faire stuff first. So I started at the beginning with her basic underdress, a simple skirt with two bands going over the breasts. 

 Dress Front

Dress Back

This is made of two yards of handkerchief weight white linen. I bought it from fabrics-store.com. I got the optic white. Egyptians valued their linen, the richer you were the whiter your linen. The two straps are self lined and gathered under the bust then on the top of the shoulders. They are stitched into a band under the bust that helps with the fit. Not necessarily historically accurate but an adaptation for modern views. 

The skirt is trapezoid shaped. It is stitched to the band right under the bust, you can just see the band in the above pictures. The skirt comes down into a point to form a small train. The train is artistic license. To me a train is a symbol of a princess. So I left it. (plus I couldn't figure out how to level the hem)

The gown is completely handsewn. I used undyed linen thread for the basic unseen construction and then bleached linen thread for top stitching and visible seams. 

The gown fastens down the back with hooks and eyes. Originally I had it pinned loose enough to take it on and off, but it didn't look right. Many paintings show the gowns tightly fit to the body. I couldn't think of an accurate way to do this. I mean the Egyptians were great innovators, they may have had hooks and eyes or something similar. I just may not have access to the information to prove it. I know it's a stretch. 

Now to finish off the look, we add two collars, one smaller and more everyday like and the other richer and more court like. 

"Court Collar"

"Everyday Collar"

Oh and how can one forget the absolutely awesome shoes. They're from Lover. and they just scream Egyptian Queen to me. 

There are plans for a photoshoot involving the whole look, but alas it has some problems. The gown gown is partially see through, so I need to make something to wear under it. Which is another research project. And I have to get a wig. Red hair, despite belonging to Seti I and Ramses the Great, doesn't look right here. 

Until then, Enjoy more pics:

And this would be my completely out of the box look of a Princess, or in this case a queen for the challenge. Now to talk lover into being Ramses....

Cheers, 

Merlina