Challenge #19: Wood, Metal, and Bone

Haha! Another post! I'm on a roll here. It also helps I have pictures and all that good stuff. Well and a bit of time and power, the power being the most important.

My entry for the 19th Challenge is a pair of bodies roughly set in the 1500s. I know there's no evidence for them, but I find one pair of stays easier to use for multiple gowns rather than building the support into each gown. Plus for an impoverished princess, it's much more cost efficient. The smock I made last summer. It's of cotton muslin and completely handsewn - save the "blackwork" on the cuffs, that was done with the fancy stitches last year on the new machine.

These stays started out as a Simplicity pattern. I tweaked it and made it my own. They are completely boned with 1/8 inch round reed, two per each 1/4 inch channel. There is one piece of 1/2 inch flat reed at center front, and at each side center back. The stays spiral lace up the back which I realize in looking at these pics was not properly done. Oops. These stays are also a valuable lesson in the importance of tabs. Tabs are your best friends for fully boned stays. Trust me. 

Now we have the universal petticoats and bumroll to amp up the skirts. I live in fear of farthangles and have only ever made one which was a disaster. Panniers ironically are much easier. I also made the necklace and earrings for this. The necklace is in need of a different ribbon, but it works. 

 I call these my universal petticoats because I wear them with everything. They're cotton muslin and have pocket slits. Two are simple pleated rectangles. The third worn in the middle has two deep ruffles. And yes they need a good starching. Bumroll is worn on my hips not my waist. I gather that's the better place for it.

And now the facts:

The Challenge #19: Wood, Metal, and Bone

Fabric: 1 yard patterned cotton, 1 yard interlining also cotton, 1 yard cotton muslin for lining
Pattern: Started as Simplicity 2621. I played and integrated the tabs, lowered the back, separated the strap. And kinda completely disregarded the instructions
Year: 1500s. More or less. 
Notions: Bias tape, pale yellow/off white. Eyelets, thread, 1/8’’ round reed, Three pieces 1/2 ‘’ flat reed for center front “busk” and back on either side of eyelets. 
How Historically Accurate: Um…reed is accurate for stays, but they are difficult to find evidence of prior to the 1580s, as far as I know. Plus cotton wasn’t used. But alas, I am a poor grad student and it is underwear. It gives the right shape. 
First Worn: Just briefly for pics. And then for the photoshoot. 
Total Cost: The reed was $10 for an American pound. The muslin is about $2 a yard. And the cotton was $12 total. So $24 total. Most was in the stash

Now for the dress!

Cheers! 
Merlina