A Tudor Gentleman and Lady

So we plotted and planned for Faire, then life got in the way. However I got part of the plot done, and then it go adapted. And I still need to do something about these sleeves.

Close up showing the white fabric with the subtle design

Quilting the canvas interlining. I wanted to experiment with minimal boning for Tudor Dress

 Fitting. This is just two layers of cotton canvas quilted together with vertical lines as if for boning. The canvas and quilting gives quite a good shape. I added two strips of flat reed to the center front and a pair on either side of the lacing. The fashion fabric was mounted on the top of the lining. I also like how smooth the sides and front are. The only seams is the side back.

Handsewn partlet, because after wicked sunburn it is 110% necessary. 

Trims on the left: silver cord, fancy silvery trim and black velvet ribbon. And then the way they were sewn on to the right. I love using simple trim to build up the design. Just one would not be enough. And ironically the trim was the cheapest part of the gown. 

If I remember correctly this was shortly after I stitched on the last of the trim, Had to see what it looked like! This is just over my handsewn shift (because we must brag about that) and a prequilted fabric turned petticoat. 

Cheap paper fan decorated to accompany the gown. Fans in summer are very important. 

AND *drum roll* Pictures from faire!

Lover having fun!

Lover's attire as a proper abet still roguish gentleman for the day. All save the hat and bracers are from previous years. I made the hat the night before. Along with my hood. 

My gown! It actually came together really well. I lined the sleeve turn backs in net a la Jane Seymour. I also had black velvet under sleeves. Which are currently tucked in my pockets because they were too hot. I also have my French hood. I made it based off the information here: http://www.modehistorique.com/research/ReconstructingTheFrenchHood_06-2009.pdf

I did cheat a little, I do not like coifs. So my pleated ribbon is stitched on a band like a medieval veil. I also have a muslin braid beneath my hood for the braid that would have been worn of one's own hair. (Previous pictures show I do not possess sufficient hair.) Everything is then pinned together. So many pins! My neck and shoulders hurt for days after. This is quite a heavy gown and headdress. 

And a quasi close up/cute picture.

There should be more on Nefertari soon and the Celt Warrior and his Queen. As well as a head first off the high dive jump into TWO, read that TWO new eras which have previously only been dabbled in!

Cheers!

Merlina

How I Will Lose My Mind

Arrr! And welcome to more Pirate Insanity! Last year 'twas Once Upon a Time pirates, this year 'tis rather more insane than last! To begin we decided to go to faire (New York Renaissance Faire) as pirates, specifically Captain Calico Jack Rackham, Anne Bonny, and Mary Reed. Pretty easy when you think about it. I am to be Anne Bonny. That doesn't change we (Lover and I) just decided we needed to go to the Blackbeard Pirate Festival in Hampton VA too.

Now here's where the insanity strikes. There is a grand ball Friday night of the event. Ergo one must be dressed appropriately.......and what better reason for a robe a la francaise! (I know, I'm nuts.) Originally I thought I'd finally make the curtain along dress, but calculated out I'd need four panels, rough $100! I don't exactly have $100 lying around to spare. If I did there would be shoes. So Stash Shopping it is. Stash then grants this:

Actually 5 yards of this. The tag still stuck on it read that it was an Upholstery/Slipcover fabric and original retail was $4.79 a yard. The tag was written by a typewriter so this fabric has been around for awhile. It has a nice shine to it and a heavy-ish hand. The edge claims it was made for Concord Fabrics by Joan Kessler. A quick Google search turns up several similar fabrics. All are polished cotton from the 1980s. So it works. plus the print is almost identical from this example found in Patterns for Theatrical Costumes by Katherine Strand Hokeboer:

Pg 231

I feel pretty happy with myself. I know cotton isn't fully period but so far one of the biggest pieces I've ever made has cost me absolutely nothing! Which is always an awesome feeling.

I intend to use these two patterns from Norah Waugh's The Cut of Women's Clothes as inspiration along with Katherine's tutorial from The Fashionable Past (link goes to the start of the tutorial. With the fabric amount I have, I feel the second is better for conservation of fabric, but I love the cuffs on the first. 

Now if only I could have stays that actually fit and no fear of hoops........

More on Lover's clothes later!

Cheers,

Merlina

I Present Captain Killian Jones, Better Known as Hook, Love

For those of us who devote our Sunday nights at 8pm to an hour in front of ABC or have DVR set to record that same hour, just in case - well this is for you.

At that time on that channel is the show Once Upon a Time, now on its third season. I have been watching since the beginning. Occasionally catching up in the morning after. But I have never missed an episode. It is one of my favorite shows, especially since I grew up on fairy tales. My cousins and I once creating our own "fairy tale museum". If you have been watching, you have met Hook.

Not this Hook:

http://disney.wikia.com/wiki/Captain_Hook

Trust me, I would not be drooling over this version of Hook, perms not a good thing, and I'm fairly certain he wears a corset....

No I mean this Hook:

http://gayspeak.com/showthread.php?p=330670

I mean who wouldn't drool? Now wipe the drool off your keyboard.....and get the wine, or rum..whichever you prefer, and we shall continue!

For costumers, this show is deadly. It is catnip to us well at least to me. I look at all the costumes and go, I want that and that and that and that...When I first saw the episode with Hook, my immediate thought was how much he and Lover looked similar. Well that was the second thought. The first being, Lover would look hot in a leather doublet. And that I finally understand the whole pirate thing. I know, I know. I'm a little late in catching that train.

http://onceuponatimeabc.wikia.com/wiki/Captain_Hook

This is our dear Hook. I went through so many patterns and rewatched so many episodes. Had to get each piece perfect. This is how I learned the doublets on the men are very similar to the Tudor/Elizabethan doublets. Which means The Tudor Tailor has the patterns I needed! Hallelujah! 

With a doublet from Tudor Tailor, Simplicity 4923, and McCall's 4486, several bottles of wine, some SoCo, pirate movies, Once, stolen kisses, the black cat, and much swearing, I had this and I know the tabs need lengthening:

And my absolute fave:

Isn't it absolutely delicious? I mean seriously, it's Hook! I love having Lover who is willing to dress up in costume with me. He even found the boots! 

Cheers!

Merlina

PS: That is a real sword.......

Arrrr! And other 18th Century Things

Wow! It's January 2013! So weird getting used to that. Anyway, I am back, having successfully survived the holidays. (There were a couple questionable points there but alas...) Which means we shall be attempting to blog more often. I made that one of my New Year's Resolutions. Hehe. Well clearly I'm not off to a good start.

To begin we have more pictures of the Colonial Dress. It has since been finished, I just don't have finished pictures. Since these were taken, the trim has been stitched down and hooks/eyes have been added to the center front, I find I dislike pins for closure.

This shows the pinned box pleated self trim and the ribbon down the center. I know it's probably not completely historically accurate, deal with it or unpick the trim and do it yourself. ;) 

Larger picture of the dress, Showing the sleeve and the other petticoat. 

Full shot of the dress.  

Sleeve Ruffle Thingy. Double layered, pleated to the sleeve with the same ribbon as the neckline. 

Now with a completed dress, with hems and closures (big deal for me), there is one less thing to do on the list. And I can take pictures with the cat! (Once cap and neck kerchief are finished). Although that kind of back-fired because in trying on this dress, I learned I need new stays.....doesn't that always happen?

Anyways! In an effort to accomplish many things, and not be sewing right before upcoming events, things have been started early. And those things that have been started early are Top Secret Projects, yes with capital letters. I can show you some pictures but cannot tell you what they are.

This is my corset, I have since fixed the binding on it so the fashion fabric lays flat. The corset is four layers; lining, interlining, interlining, fashion fabric. The "boning" is 1/2'' cable ties sandwiched in the interlining layers. I used my corset block pattern, same as I did for my Marian costume, just the full length version. 

This last picture is this gorgeous tooled faux leather. I found it on Ebay and it will be a key part of my costume. Soon. 

Lastly we have the first part of lover's Top Secret Project costume. It still requires buttons, and its proper collar. The fabric was horrid to stitch. 

Feel free to guess. I ain't saying a word!

Cheers!

Merlina

Pirates! Pirates! Pirates!

Okays so it's probably a little crazy to start planning for next year's RenFaire now (and yes I do go to those, I happen to love the one by me) but when inspiration strikes, there is often little choice. And man, do I have inspiration.

Every Sunday we watch ABC's Once Upon a Time. It's a really cool show and has awesome characters and amazing costumes for a tv show. It's like SyFy's Merlin costume wise but with a Tudor/Elizabethan/Victorian edge. Anyways, the costumes are awesome. Google it for awesome pics. But alas, I digress. This season there is Captain Killian Jones, better known as Captain Hook. Yes Captain Hook is now on Once. But not this Hook:

(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:CaptainHookcartoon.jpg)

This Hook:

(http://onceuponatime.wikia.com/wiki/Hook)

I know, totally drool worthy. Any who, there was already discussion of pirates for next years RenFaire, last year. And with Hook's arrival on Once, what better character to do? (and I mean costume ;) ) So I went through pics and managed to figure out Hook's wardrobe and the absolutely gorgeous coat he has. On a random note, does anyone else notice how he keeps getting tied up every time he appears? Not that I'm complaining  just saying....

So we have our dashing captain  Lover is already all for it. (squeals and runs around cheering). Now we need my attire. I looked through Milah, Hook's love interest - we think - from the episode "The Crocodile". I liked the idea of her attire but I didn't want to recreate it exactly. So after much digging, I came up with this:

Merlina the Pirate

Just ignore the writing on it. I take notes on my sketches. And yes that is a sketch and the extent of my art skills, although I can sometimes do landscapes....

I intend to make the doublet shell out of this lovely tooled faux leather with a green-blue lining. the doublet lining will also be the same as the outer fabric of the corset. Blouse will be a crinkly cotton. Skirt likely similar to the lining. and this time the pants will have a little stretch or I will cut them properly and there will be NO lacing down the sides.

Now I just need to get the fabric, pattern and everything. Fun. At least I have my favorite corset pattern!

Cheers and Happy Sunday/Once Day!
Merlina

PS: Links beneath the pictures will relocate you to the location they were taken. I admit I could formally cite them in APA or MLA format, but I just finished the massive bibliography and I don't feel like it.