Challenge #12: Pretty, Pretty Princesses

So Pretty, Pretty Princesses the 12th challenge of the Historical Sew Fortnightly. I know yay! I actually did a challenge! Seeing as how life has interfered with pretty much all the others.....

Now, princesses, when we hear that word we all likely think of those really really rich costumes from the Middle Ages or possibly even from Disney. (And the historical accurate versions are truly drool worthy, I have plans for those...) Which is a great starting point. It helps with brain storming. So originally I thought of Queen Isabella, the She-Wolf of France from the 14th Century in England. (Think of the French Princess from Braveheart, I know more drool worthy costumes). But then I had a totally out of the box idea, my absolute favorite monarch from history, Nefertari, beloved royal wife of Ramses the Great.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Maler_der_Grabkammer_der_Nefertari_004.jpg

This is an image of Nefertari from her tomb built by Ramses the Great. The two of them are considered a great love story, possibly the greatest love story from the Ancient World. Ramses valued her so greatly that her name appears on the Treaty of Kaddish, the world's first peace treaty,  and she kept a correspondence with the queen of the Hittites. Her tomb in the Valley of the Queens is one of the largest and most ornate tombs. So there, that's my princess for the challenge. And I have to say it but The Ten Commandments got it wrong, Nefertari was so much in love with Ramses. 

I have big ornate plans to make her crown, collar, and bracelets. I will eventually. I have to finish faire stuff first. So I started at the beginning with her basic underdress, a simple skirt with two bands going over the breasts. 

 Dress Front

Dress Back

This is made of two yards of handkerchief weight white linen. I bought it from fabrics-store.com. I got the optic white. Egyptians valued their linen, the richer you were the whiter your linen. The two straps are self lined and gathered under the bust then on the top of the shoulders. They are stitched into a band under the bust that helps with the fit. Not necessarily historically accurate but an adaptation for modern views. 

The skirt is trapezoid shaped. It is stitched to the band right under the bust, you can just see the band in the above pictures. The skirt comes down into a point to form a small train. The train is artistic license. To me a train is a symbol of a princess. So I left it. (plus I couldn't figure out how to level the hem)

The gown is completely handsewn. I used undyed linen thread for the basic unseen construction and then bleached linen thread for top stitching and visible seams. 

The gown fastens down the back with hooks and eyes. Originally I had it pinned loose enough to take it on and off, but it didn't look right. Many paintings show the gowns tightly fit to the body. I couldn't think of an accurate way to do this. I mean the Egyptians were great innovators, they may have had hooks and eyes or something similar. I just may not have access to the information to prove it. I know it's a stretch. 

Now to finish off the look, we add two collars, one smaller and more everyday like and the other richer and more court like. 

"Court Collar"

"Everyday Collar"

Oh and how can one forget the absolutely awesome shoes. They're from Lover. and they just scream Egyptian Queen to me. 

There are plans for a photoshoot involving the whole look, but alas it has some problems. The gown gown is partially see through, so I need to make something to wear under it. Which is another research project. And I have to get a wig. Red hair, despite belonging to Seti I and Ramses the Great, doesn't look right here. 

Until then, Enjoy more pics:

And this would be my completely out of the box look of a Princess, or in this case a queen for the challenge. Now to talk lover into being Ramses....

Cheers, 

Merlina

Plotting a Challenge, AKA Boredom Takes Over

Alright, so with semester over for now, I can fully participate in the Historical Sew Fortnightly! This requires a bit of planning on my part and alas a bit of luck as well, but it's me so there's loads of luck. Anyways.....

I looked through the list of upcoming projects and found that by my sheer luck, I can participate in the next few without having to buy anything! YAY! This is rather important now, because my dear Data, my laptop of six years, is no more. So money must be put aside for that. Luckily I already bought the fabric for some of the upcoming challenges.

Next project will be for #11 which will be a red petticoat, I need one for my damsel 1.0 gown for faire. Following that is the secret project for #12. Then possibly corded stays or a new corset for #13. But this post is about my planning for Challenge #14, the Eastern influence. :)

I went digging through all and found this pretty fabric.

. 

The original plan had been to make an awesome fantasy princess gown. But the image I have in mind,  requires more fabric then I possess. So back to the drawing board, sorta. 

Looking through the Pinterest for the challenge, I found this.

It is a furisode kimono style dressing gown from 1885. It's housed in the FIDM Museum. It's really pretty and who doesn't want a gorgeous dressing gown, or robe in general? Which leads to more digging. Giving us these:

The first is from the Adventures of Robin Hood with Olivia de Havilland and Errol Flynn. It was the only full length shot of the dressing gown for the love scene I could find. The second is of Padme Amidala from Attack of the Clones. Image is from Padawan's Guide. 

So these three plus the pretty wrapper/dressing gowns in Gone with the Wind, have influenced my project for Challenge #14. I'm still playing with how I want it to look, but so far definitely romantic and flowing. Eventually I'll put a pretty nightgown under it, probably more influenced from the Padme image, but that can be another challenge.....

Ooooo yay! I love sewing plotting. Now on to the red petticoat!

Cheers,

Merlina 

How Merlina Makes Pockets

How Merlina Makes Pockets

Pockets are simple. At least how I make them. I do not present this as the most historically accurate way to make pockets. This is the way I do it. Are there better ways to do this? Yes. Is it wrong to do it this way? No, at least not for me. 

 

Mine are pretty plain, I embroider fairly well I simply don't have the patience. I however applaud those who do. This was an excersise in use of stash fabric and practice with my hand sewing. Plus I like colorful underthings. Who wants white all the time?

 

And now, making a pocket or two.

 

I start with a piece of paper taped to my waist. Reach my fingers done to the edge and mark the fartest they reach. Then fold the paper in half and connect the dots for a kind of tear drop shape. Cut out and we get this:

Pocket Pattern

My hand to show shape

 

Next you cut out four of these from your choice fabric. If you want two pockets, cut two pieces if you want one. I personally prefer two. To me, there are days when one is just not enough. Mine are made from the remains of the blue medium weight linen I used for my blue hood. It's a little wrinkled, but alas linen is known to do that.

 

Four pieces of blue linen for pockets

 

Now we sew the pockets together along the tear drop shape. I did mine by hand with waxed undyed linen thread. Once I stitched down the first row of stitches, I clipped the seam allowance, and turned the pocket inside out then pinned and sewed again. Making a kind of french seam. My intention was to turn that inside again. But I thought it looked cool, so it remains.

 

Pocket sewn up

 

I am aware that this isn't period. I simply wanted to do it this way. And I like french seams, they're pretty. :) I do this for both of the pockets.

 

Then we cut a slit down the center to allow one to access said pocket. I bound the slit with self fabric bias tape.

 

 

Pocket with finished slit

 

 

We shall repeat this on the other pocket so there are two. Then stitch them onto a tape or more self fabric bias tape. In this case a piece of yellow linen from my yellow Marian gown, which still isn't finished (damned sleevils). I place my pockets at my sides over my hips. All my petticoats have the same placed slit to access them.

 

Et, voila! Finished pockets!

Aren't they all bright and cheerful?

 

Perfect for my cell and ID, and money for the next historical adventure! And possibly some cleverly historical pocket trappings. What historical lady doesn't want a letter from her beloved? Or a little token to show off?

 

Next up on the sewing run is a recycled fabric red petticoat. The color is actually accurate, but that's for another post. And so much better than boring white. I'm not knocking white, but really who doesn't want a red petticoat? Sounds fun to me.

 

Cheers,

Merlina

For the Love of Pockets

For those of us who venture forth into the past from our humble modern beginnings are forever tasked with hiding the common place items we use in modern life. Things like cell phones, keys, ID, cash and credit cards among numerous others. Now certainly we have the option of a purse. Reticules were very popular in the Regency Era and after. Pouches hanging from belts can also work. Which is all fine and dandy but I have tried both, and find neither to my liking. Which brings us to an Eighteenth Century necessity, the pocket.

Pockets found via Pinterest, claim to belong to the Bath Museum

 

These clever little pockets are on a tape and tie around one's waist beneath one's skirts. They vary in size and can hold quite a lot of things. Perfect to hide away the cell phone and other 21st century necessities. 

 

Now what follows is my opinon, just me theorizing. So don't jump down my throat. I have little to back up my thoughts besides theory.

 

Pockets to me are one of the most useful pieces of historical fashion. I have worn them under dresses dating from the Tudor era all the way up to the 1860s (exception being the Regency). They hide out easily under the layers of skirts and skirt supports. As far as I know there is no evidence to back this, but I don't think something this useful just suddenly appeared in the 1700s. Although I believe the idea of a pouch on a belt under one's outer skirt is mentioned in The Tudor Tailor.

 

If my theory is true, which greater minds then mine may already know, the question ranks what happened to all the pockets? The same thing that happened to all the other extant clothes. Only the fancy pockets survive. But if the majority of the world worked and used pockets, I think the pockets would have been plain, and used until they could no longer be repaired. So that's my theory, if anyone asks.

 

Now on to the good stuff.

 

I have had a pair of plain machine sewn white pockets for ages. They were of a heavier fabric, maybe a cotton, maybe a blend with bright teal bias tape to finish the slits. I do know there is a picture of them, I don't know where it is.

 

Unfortunately, my pockets became a victim of the ferious black cat. (He's really not that ferious, rather adorable) They were scratched up and taken to parts unknown. Therefore I now need new pockets. Which I will show you how to make in my next post!



I live!

I just want to tell all that I live! The semester is over, the papers are written. All is well with the world. Tomorrow we open the pool and then I shall blog. I swear.

Merlina

Regency Cinderella Or Challenge #5

I finally present my entrance for Challenge #5: Peasants and Pioneers for the Historical Sew Fortnightly! Midterms, presentations, and rehearsals interfered with the post coming sooner. ;)

(Slightly blurry, Camera was being annoying)

What I am wearing:

• Muslin Shift with 3/4 length sleeves and a ribbon drawstring. It is my historically-inaccurate-but-I-needed-a-colonial-shift shift. 
• Regency Era Short Stays from Simplicity 4052. Made of two layers of muslin with reed boning and cotton laces. 
• A strapped petticoat, pieced with the remains of the muslin I possess. The straps are grosgrain ribbon because I have no more muslin. 
• The drop front Regency Era gown. Made of old sheets which no longer fit the bed. There are also cotton tapes to fasten it. Sheets are 60% cotton, 40% polyester (never again for sheets...) Pattern started as Simplicity 4055.
• Cotton flannel high waisted apron. Has one grossly inaccurate plastic button in the center back...
• Also I have my cotton knit red stockings, and my navy shoes (also not accurate but they work with this, sorta)
• And the attempt at a turban. It's just a long strip of brown flannel. I had to pin it in place so it's over my muslin caul. 

Dress from Behind

I'm actually pretty happy with this. I made it in about two weeks with the materials I had on hand. All I bought was the cotton ties for the stays, and the cotton tape for the dress. Which means this dress cost less than $5. From what I can tell, it appears I used the wrong bodice back...the evening one in place of the day one. Either that or I need to make a chemisette, which I would have but I ran out of fabric. So I will eventually.

Here are the facts as per the challenge:

Challenge #5: Peasants and Pioneers

Fabric: Dress was two pillow cases and a top sheet of old twin bed sheets (cotton/polyester). Apron was a small portion of the cotton flannel bottom sheet of a twin set. Undergarments are cotton muslin. 

Pattern: Started as Simplicity 4055. Adapted from there. Used the Drop Front Dress Instructions from Sense and Sensibility, I think. I kinda made it up along the way. 

Year: Early 1800s. I personally prefer to think roughly 1820s in my head. I wanted it to look old fashioned. 

Notions: Cotton tape, eyelets, cotton cord, thread

How Historically Accurate is It? It looks historically accurate, I couldn't swear to any of it. Regency is not my time period. Although it's accurate to the challenge, sheets are reused fabric which would have been pioneer-y

Hours to Complete: About 3 hours on the apron, 4 on the short stays, 2 on the strapped petticoat, and 48 or so on the dress, I think

Total Cost: about $5. All I bought was the tape and cord. I had the rest. 

To me, this is a Cinderella dress. Here Cinderella is, working fast to clean out the fireplace, waiting for her prince. Mind you I would have done it without the fairy godmother and then rescued the prince myself...

On other notes, my faire garb is coming along, and I will soon be cutting out my linen! Until then, smile!

Cheers!

Merlina

An Apology and A Salute to "The Stash"

To begin, I must apologize for the lack of a write up on my Regency Cinderella, Challenge #5 in the Historical Sew Fortnightly. The dress is done and currently on Petunia (my dress form. Inanimate objects are easier to yell at with names).

I want to do a full write up but that requires two valuable things which I currently do not possess: time and my photographer. The first will be easily solved. It is almost Spring Break. I just have to do a presentation and start a paper. Midterms are now over. The second requires plotting on my part. Lover is in rehearsal a lot which makes pictures difficult. But I swear I will have them for this week! (Also I will be able to figure out my hair for the dress, since I want it to look really good)

Also there have not been many projects on here. I have several in the works, two are waiting for the arrival of a box of fabric. Yay! Which should be here Monday. However! Until then, I present a Stash Project Genie and a valuable lesson in the Importance of a Ribbon Box.

This is the first part of the Stash Genie:

The top is made of a double layer of chiffon with the metallic trimmed sheer purple ribbon at the edges to add support and detail.

I based the pattern off a bikini top. Just flattened out the triangle portion of the top for a pattern and then cut out four, safely reinforcing that chiffon is a bitch to sew. I had to recut two after Jacques (the sewing machine) and the fabric had a disagreement. So I stitched it by hand. Went together rather quickly. The ribbon for the edges of the triangles and the neck ties is ironed in half, which was another rather difficult part.

Ribbon vs. Iron - Iron Wins. 

Luckily, I didn't have to use that piece of ribbon. I probably shouldn't have had the iron *that* hot but the ribbon wouldn't iron! 

Now, this ribbon, it is a lesson in the importance of "this'll be enough for the project I haven't thought of yet". I got it from a $1 ribbon sale at A.C. Moore. It's 7/8'' polyester sheer with metallic edge. I bought two spools in purple, one in white, and one in red. It took a little over one spool to make all the ribbon portions on the top and I knew I wanted to put the ribbon on the skirt and veils, to tie the outfit together. So I improvised. 

Satin Ribbon to the Rescue!

(We can tell I like purple)

So I just happened to have purple satin ribbon of a close enough color to the rest of the ribbon and chiffon in my stash. I believe I used it for ribbon rosettes on the Dark Queen's garters (Long story that was completely ruined by a vicious head cold and a lost hurricane). With all the ties on, the top fits like a bikini top. And thanks to MMA, I have no need for sit-ups to be able to wear this. (I know, Shut up Merlin!)

I have already started hemming the veils for this. They will be out of purple chiffon as well, probably with a bit of the teal chiffon worked in. There will also be a bolero or sleeves, either chiffon or satin; a teal chiffon shirt with a purple yoke and more purple ribbon. I'm gonna attempt this without buying anything. 

Despite the small scale of this project, I have learned several things:

1. Iron when one is in a patient mood. Polyester ribbon requires patience. 
2. Always buy more of the $1 a spool ribbons than you think you'll ever need. It can always be used for something. 
3. Chiffon is a bitch. It has a mind of its own. Sew small objects by hand. 
4. Stashes rock. I always get yelled at for having so much fabric, but I can do an entire project without buying anything! (More ribbon would be nice though)
5. It's fun to be fantasy instead of Historical Accuracy. 

Also in my stash search I found this:

Can anyone say "Over the Top Princess"? I would use it for the Pretty Pretty Princess Sewing Challenge, but I have a much more original idea for that. ;)

I love my stash!

Also the pirates are almost done!

Happy St. Patrick's Day!

Merlina