She for Whom the Sun Shines

This is the photo heavy photo shoot for my full Ancient Egyptian gown. I still want the vulture crown and my bracelets were not dry, but we took advantage of the weather. And now for the gown and all the context. And so we know, by far I am no Egypt expect. In this post, I'm the author painting a picture of a world gone by.

It is 1280 BCE, Ramses II is newly upon the throne of Egypt, a superpower of the Ancient World. Later to be known as Ramses the Great for his military and political prowess as well as the numerous monuments he erected all over Egypt. It is the carvings we see another side to Ramses, he was a man deeply in love with Nefertari, his queen.

http://euler.slu.edu/~bart/egyptianhtml/kings%20and%20Queens/Queen_Nefertari.html

It is upon the walls of Nefertari's tomb we see how deeply Ramses loved his queen. We also get the poetry which I used as the basis to this challenge.

Real Quick, The Challenge Facts:

The Challenge: #18 Poetry in Motion 

The Item: Ancient Egyptian Overdress, dated to the New Kingdom, more or less
The Fabric: 3 yards White Linen, gauze weight
Pattern: Looked at the pretty paintings, went from there
Year: Reign of Ramesses II, 1279 BCE to 1213 BCE
Notions: Linen thread, hook and eye
How Historically Accurate is it? Um. It’s linen, which Egyptians used, it looks like the pictures but there's not much evidence to show how to make this. It's more theatrical. But is hand sewn too. Also the train is not accurate as far as is known but I really wanted the train, looks fancy. I'd say 40-50% because of linen, hand sewn and looking the part.
Hours to Complete: Roughly 24 hours total
First Worn: For the photo shoot and some quick pictures
How is this Poetry? I took my influence from the poetry in Nefertari's tomb. It was written by Ramesses to honor her. He called her "she who makes the sun shine, just in her passing she has stolen my heart."

In the pictures I am wearing the gown from Pretty Pretty Princesses last year, my belt from an earlier challenge which name is escaping me, the robe for this challenge, my beautiful jeweled sandals, a black wig cut short, a wide collar from Egypt, and my crescent moon headpiece because it works. 

And now for all the pretty pictures. 

 Walk like an Egyptian!

 We are a tomb carving!

 At this point I gave up on the wig. Red hair is period anyway. Ramses had red hair 

Close up of the makeup

And there you have it! Nefertari! Up next we have the making of the pieces as well as the Tudor Lady. Then tis on to Halloween and two new eras well not new but new requiring full wardrobes! 

Cheers, 

Merlina

Forward into the 1770s!

So here we go. Severe lack of sewing desire for the faire stuff has led to a venturing out back into the 1770s. As mentioned previously; Lover, Friendy, and I are going American Revolution reenacting. I being me and recently in the possession of Patterns of Fashion has led to much plotting.

The new printer led to a stay pattern that might actually work. Yay!

And I found fabric to use:

It's a lovely silver blue I found on Fabrics-Store. They also have a lovely linen canvas. It's also not softened! Yay! I have round reed to use for boning. I bought a pound and have since made two Elizabethan Stays from it with plenty left over. It's about 1/8" which means two pieces for each 1/4" channel. I intend to bind the stays with the binding from Burnley and Trowbridge. Which Lover has offered to help me with. My hands have never been particularly strong. 

Okay. I bragged about my plots and now I'm supposed to go work on the Celts so they can be photographed for the Plaid and Paisley challenge. Which is probably what I should have been doing from the beginning. 

Cheers!

Merlina

The Latest Burst of Insanity

I am back. Which shows how much of a bad blogger I am. But in my defense I was in sewing slump and have now suddenly become very busy doing stuff for Faire and now for American Revolutionary War Reenactment. Which is always fun but can be a bit insane at times. I also have many challenges in the HSF to catch up on and then to do. I am determined to do many even if it means playing catch up. Plus I still have to finish Nefertari and find her a wig. So much to do. So here is the full list of where I shall be. Hopefully blogging in between. Well now I have my new tablet so that should make it much easier.

For Faire:
Celts:

1.  Green Dress with Green Plaid Wrap (Done! Pics coming as soon as it cools off here! Plus the plaid will be my entry for the Plaid and Paisley Challenge!)
2. Blue Dress with Blue Plaid Wrap (The plaid is done and shall also be featured in the Plaid and Paisley Challenge. The Blue Dress is to be patterned on Thursday)
3. White shirt, Green Plaid Cape (Cape is done. Shirt is cut out and sitting next to me. I should probably be working on it rather then blogging...)

There are also the necessary sleeves to be added on to my doublet from last year. 

It also needs new pants and a new blouse. Hopefully I can do all that. But I can always wear modern pants as long as they're not jeans. 

In addition Hook needs sleeves and a longer doublet. And I have a corset to make for a friend. and Then there's all the reenactment stuff. For another post I think. I will hopefully have a lot photographed this week and more posts! Yay! 

Time to go stitch the shirt!

Cheers, 

Merlina

How I Will Lose My Mind

Arrr! And welcome to more Pirate Insanity! Last year 'twas Once Upon a Time pirates, this year 'tis rather more insane than last! To begin we decided to go to faire (New York Renaissance Faire) as pirates, specifically Captain Calico Jack Rackham, Anne Bonny, and Mary Reed. Pretty easy when you think about it. I am to be Anne Bonny. That doesn't change we (Lover and I) just decided we needed to go to the Blackbeard Pirate Festival in Hampton VA too.

Now here's where the insanity strikes. There is a grand ball Friday night of the event. Ergo one must be dressed appropriately.......and what better reason for a robe a la francaise! (I know, I'm nuts.) Originally I thought I'd finally make the curtain along dress, but calculated out I'd need four panels, rough $100! I don't exactly have $100 lying around to spare. If I did there would be shoes. So Stash Shopping it is. Stash then grants this:

Actually 5 yards of this. The tag still stuck on it read that it was an Upholstery/Slipcover fabric and original retail was $4.79 a yard. The tag was written by a typewriter so this fabric has been around for awhile. It has a nice shine to it and a heavy-ish hand. The edge claims it was made for Concord Fabrics by Joan Kessler. A quick Google search turns up several similar fabrics. All are polished cotton from the 1980s. So it works. plus the print is almost identical from this example found in Patterns for Theatrical Costumes by Katherine Strand Hokeboer:

Pg 231

I feel pretty happy with myself. I know cotton isn't fully period but so far one of the biggest pieces I've ever made has cost me absolutely nothing! Which is always an awesome feeling.

I intend to use these two patterns from Norah Waugh's The Cut of Women's Clothes as inspiration along with Katherine's tutorial from The Fashionable Past (link goes to the start of the tutorial. With the fabric amount I have, I feel the second is better for conservation of fabric, but I love the cuffs on the first. 

Now if only I could have stays that actually fit and no fear of hoops........

More on Lover's clothes later!

Cheers,

Merlina

Challenge #4: Underneath it All

I had awesome plans. I was going to keep up with the blog and have all the challenges up on time. Ha. I'm hilarious. Then the universe intervened. And I had to haul my dear laptop off to repairs and find a real job.

So without further delay I give you my pre quilted quilted petticoat for Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 Challenge #4: Underneath it All (And as soon as I find buttons I like do I have an awesome post for Innovation.)

 

I am not wearing anything under it. It stands out just like that on its own. I intend to add a bit of stiffener to the hem to make it even sturdier.

I like the quilted petticoat because I have no patience for hoops or corded petticoats of any kind. This one is to be worn under a Florentine Gown with one petticoat over it. So it should stand up nice. Plus it holds my skirts out with the same umph but fewer petticoats. I'm also planning to use it for several eras. 

Here it is under a skirt. The skirt is 4 yards quilters cotton with two grosgrain ribbon guards. The petticoat holds up rather well. 

Now for the Facts:

The Challenge #4: Underneath it All

Item: Quilted Petticoat

Fabric: 3 yards prequilted red fabric (cotton fabric with polyester batting)
Pattern:  Cut 4 rectangles at the proper waist to ankle height. And two longer ones for waistband.
Year:  I consider it rather multi era, given it gives awesome skirt support. Its true purpose is for 1570s Florentine.
Notions:  Thread
How Historically Accurate:  Cotton and Polyester are not accurate, neither is machine quilting. However, red was a popular color for petticoats. And quilted petticoats do exist, especially in the 1700s. I say 3-4/10
First Worn:  Only for the pictures and then around the house when finished. Intended for the 2014 Faire Season and then to help hold skirts out (hoops and I hate each other. Even corded ones.)
Time Spent: Took abou 15 minutes to cut out and then about 3 hours to assemble. That includes French seams because I use those on everything. So 3 hours 15 minutes

Total Cost: Fabric was on sale so $15? I bought it awhile ago.

Hopefully the dress will be soon!

Oh and my help:

Gods forbid the fabric floats away!

Cheers!
Merlina

I Present Captain Killian Jones, Better Known as Hook, Love

For those of us who devote our Sunday nights at 8pm to an hour in front of ABC or have DVR set to record that same hour, just in case - well this is for you.

At that time on that channel is the show Once Upon a Time, now on its third season. I have been watching since the beginning. Occasionally catching up in the morning after. But I have never missed an episode. It is one of my favorite shows, especially since I grew up on fairy tales. My cousins and I once creating our own "fairy tale museum". If you have been watching, you have met Hook.

Not this Hook:

http://disney.wikia.com/wiki/Captain_Hook

Trust me, I would not be drooling over this version of Hook, perms not a good thing, and I'm fairly certain he wears a corset....

No I mean this Hook:

http://gayspeak.com/showthread.php?p=330670

I mean who wouldn't drool? Now wipe the drool off your keyboard.....and get the wine, or rum..whichever you prefer, and we shall continue!

For costumers, this show is deadly. It is catnip to us well at least to me. I look at all the costumes and go, I want that and that and that and that...When I first saw the episode with Hook, my immediate thought was how much he and Lover looked similar. Well that was the second thought. The first being, Lover would look hot in a leather doublet. And that I finally understand the whole pirate thing. I know, I know. I'm a little late in catching that train.

http://onceuponatimeabc.wikia.com/wiki/Captain_Hook

This is our dear Hook. I went through so many patterns and rewatched so many episodes. Had to get each piece perfect. This is how I learned the doublets on the men are very similar to the Tudor/Elizabethan doublets. Which means The Tudor Tailor has the patterns I needed! Hallelujah! 

With a doublet from Tudor Tailor, Simplicity 4923, and McCall's 4486, several bottles of wine, some SoCo, pirate movies, Once, stolen kisses, the black cat, and much swearing, I had this and I know the tabs need lengthening:

And my absolute fave:

Isn't it absolutely delicious? I mean seriously, it's Hook! I love having Lover who is willing to dress up in costume with me. He even found the boots! 

Cheers!

Merlina

PS: That is a real sword.......

Pirates Ahoy!

So this year for faire was Pirates! Specifically Once Upon a Time Pirates. My garb is five pieces: white shirt, black leggings, red paneled skirt, brown corset, faux leather doublet.

The doublet is the best part of this whole look. It is based off the white outfit worn by Snow White in the second season of Once Upon a Time.

http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/snow-white-mary-margaret-blanchard/images/32328181/title/princess-snow-season2-photo

I started with the bodice pattern of the Fitted English Gown from The Tudor Tailor, and played from there. I justify it as a separate because I can wear it with several different outfits. Not just my pirate. It was supposed to be for a Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge. Never posted in time. Oopsy. 

Just the Facts:

The Challenge: #16 Separates

Fabric: 1 yard tooled faux leather. (Not accurate but I can't wear leather) 1 yard red cotton

Pattern: Started as English Fitted Gown from The Tudor Tailor

Year: We can say 1500s-1600s because of the pattern but It's really fantasy

How Historically Accurate is it: Not at all. Well maybe like 1% because I used a Tudor Tailor pattern

Notions: 3 brass clasps, thread

Hours to Complete: I really didn't keep track, it went pretty quick save for all the seam removal. 

First Worn: Not yet. Only for the fit check and my brief photos.

Total Cost: $15 for the tooled leather, $6 for the cotton lining, and $6 for the clasps (half off sale on notions!!!) oh and $4 for the new seam ripper. So $31 give or take a little. 

The clasps are almost identical to the ones used on Hook's Leather doublet in Once Upon a Time. More on his look later...

And now the full garb:

And of Course my lovely rose from my dear love. 

Cheers or rather Arrr!!!

Merlina